maple

Autumn Blaze Maple – Pros and Cons


The Autumn Blaze maple is a popular in tree in modern landscape developments in Canada and the US. It is mainly favourited for its rapid growth and soil adaptability. Under ideal conditions, this maple can grow easily over 3 feet per year and in the poorest of soil conditions, in arid and even polluted areas. The overall growing size is about 55 feet tall and 40 feet wide at maturity. It is native of North America and has a hardiness range from Zone 4 to 9 in Canada.

maple

Structural Weakness
Despite the tree’s popularity, the Autumn Blaze maple has serious issues which are well known among arborists and home owners. The tree, which is cultivated from red and silver maples, develops an extremely weak structure with its rapid growth. Thin, elongated weeping, brittle branches break easily in strong winds, heavy rain, or snowfall. It takes little force to accidentally damage a young specimen during handling on transport and planting process due to its weakness. Injuries from broken branches are open ports for pathogens, fungi and pests to enter. As a result, the overall aesthetics, structural integrity as well as vitality and longevity of this tree are compromised. 

maple

To mitigate the structural weakness of Autumn Blaze maples, proactive measures, such as regular pruning and trimming must be applied to reduce the risk of failure. In some cases, cabling or bracing systems may have to be employed to provide additional support to weak branches or alleviate stress on heavy limbs. Considerations should be given to the planting locations of Autumn Blaze maples in the landscape. They should only be planted where they are shielded from windy and stormy weather conditions. Regular inspections by certified arborists are crucial for identifying early signs of problems and to allow for timely interventions. In extreme cases, arborists may recommend a complete tree removal where risks to property become significant.

maple

Root Rot
In addition to the structural weakness,
Autumn Blaze maple trees are highly susceptible to root rot, a serious fungal disease. This condition poses a significant danger as it gradually deteriorates the tree’s root structure, hindering its ability to effectively absorb vital nutrients and water. Consequently, the overall health of the tree declines over time, making it more vulnerable to other issues and environmental pressures. To combat root rot, these maples cannot just be planted in any soil condition as is commonly thought. As with most plants, planting locations with well-drained soil are necessary to avoid the development of problems from the start.

maple

In conclusion, it is evident that this popular tree is by far not as perfect as it is marketed by growers and nursery retailers. Unlike with most other maple trees, the Autumn Blaze maple requires extra care and special management to ensure longevity and safety to people and property. 

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Okanagan Shuswap Gardening – Fruit Tree Gummosis


Gummosis on fruit trees is identified by the oozing of sap from wounds or cankers. Environmental stress, mechanical injury, or disease and insect infestation can cause gummosis. The fungal cause of gummosis, cytospora canker or valsa canker affects stone fruit trees like apricots, cherries, peaches, and plums.

Gummosis

Cytospora canker, also known as perennial canker, is distinguishable from insect damage and mechanical injuries because sawdust or pieces of bark are not mixed in the sap.

Gummosis

Gummosis Symptoms
New shoots and leaves that wilt or turn yellow on trees are infected with cytospora canker. Sunken lesions on the bark enlarge, and gummy, amber-colored sap oozes from the bark. When the entire tree is weakened, defoliation may occur and branches underneath the cankers are killed. When the disease infects the trunk, the whole tree may die.

Cytospora Canker
Cytospora canker is caused by one of two different fungi: Fungus that overwinters on dead wood, in sunken lesions and by spring occurring fungal chains that release spores which are carried by winds and rain splashes. Wounds made from insect boring or mechanical injuries allow spores to enter. Warm and moist spring weather encourage more prevalent symptoms and susceptibility in trees coming out of dormancy. 

Gummosis

Gummosis Pest Management
The primary mode of infection is fungi that enters wounds on tree trunks that are injured by lawnmowers or other yard and garden equipment. Non-hardy plants exposed and unprotected in windy areas or planted in soil with poor drainage are also at risk to disease. Cold damage on trunks and branches of young trees can be prevented with the application of white latex paint. Infected branches that have been pruned in late winter should be disposed of or burned if possible.

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maple

Autumn Blaze Maple – A Problematic Tree


The Autumn Blaze maple is a popular in tree in modern landscape developments in Canada and the US. It is mainly favourited for its rapid growth and soil adaptability. Under ideal conditions, this maple can grow easily over 3 feet per year and in the poorest of soil conditions, in arid and even polluted areas. The overall growing size is about 55 feet tall and 40 feet wide at maturity. It is native of North America and has a hardiness range from Zone 4 to 9 in Canada.

maple

Structural Weakness
Despite the tree’s popularity, the Autumn Blaze maple has serious issues which are well known among arborists and home owners. The tree, which is cultivated from red and silver maples, develops an extremely weak structure with its rapid growth. Thin, elongated weeping, brittle branches break easily in strong winds, heavy rain, or snowfall. It takes little force to accidentally damage a young specimen during handling on transport and planting process due to its weakness. Injuries from broken branches are open ports for pathogens, fungi and pests to enter. As a result, the overall aesthetics, structural integrity as well as vitality and longevity of this tree are compromised. 

maple

To mitigate the structural weakness of Autumn Blaze maples, proactive measures, such as regular pruning and trimming must be applied to reduce the risk of failure. In some cases, cabling or bracing systems may have to be employed to provide additional support to weak branches or alleviate stress on heavy limbs. Considerations should be given to the planting locations of Autumn Blaze maples in the landscape. They should only be planted where they are shielded from windy and stormy weather conditions. Regular inspections by certified arborists are crucial for identifying early signs of problems and to allow for timely interventions. In extreme cases, arborists may recommend a complete tree removal where risks to property become significant.

maple

Root Rot
In addition to the structural weakness,
Autumn Blaze maple trees are highly susceptible to root rot, a serious fungal disease. This condition poses a significant danger as it gradually deteriorates the tree’s root structure, hindering its ability to effectively absorb vital nutrients and water. Consequently, the overall health of the tree declines over time, making it more vulnerable to other issues and environmental pressures. To combat root rot, these maples cannot just be planted in any soil condition as is commonly thought. As with most plants, planting locations with well-drained soil are necessary to avoid the development of problems from the start.

maple

In conclusion, it is evident that this popular tree is by far not as perfect as it is marketed by growers and nursery retailers. Unlike with most other maple trees, the Autumn Blaze maple requires extra care and special management to ensure longevity and safety to people and property. 

Links: Google Play Store    Mac App Store

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WITH YOUR PLANTING PROJECT ?
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Plant Problems – Fruit Tree Gummosis


Gummosis on fruit trees is identified by the oozing of sap from wounds or cankers. Environmental stress, mechanical injury, or disease and insect infestation can cause gummosis. The fungal cause of gummosis, cytospora canker or valsa canker affects stone fruit trees like apricots, cherries, peaches, and plums.

Gummosis

Cytospora canker, also known as perennial canker, is distinguishable from insect damage and mechanical injuries because sawdust or pieces of bark are not mixed in the sap.

Gummosis

Gummosis Symptoms
New shoots and leaves that wilt or turn yellow on trees are infected with cytospora canker. Sunken lesions on the bark enlarge, and gummy, amber-colored sap oozes from the bark. When the entire tree is weakened, defoliation may occur and branches underneath the cankers are killed. When the disease infects the trunk, the whole tree may die.

Cytospora Canker
Cytospora canker is caused by one of two different fungi: Fungus that overwinters on dead wood, in sunken lesions and by spring occurring fungal chains that release spores which are carried by winds and rain splashes. Wounds made from insect boring or mechanical injuries allow spores to enter. Warm and moist spring weather encourage more prevalent symptoms and susceptibility in trees coming out of dormancy. 

Gummosis

Gummosis Pest Management
The primary mode of infection is fungi that enters wounds on tree trunks that are injured by lawnmowers or other yard and garden equipment. Non-hardy plants exposed and unprotected in windy areas or planted in soil with poor drainage are also at risk to disease. Cold damage on trunks and branches of young trees can be prevented with the application of white latex paint. Infected branches that have been pruned in late winter should be disposed of or burned if possible.

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Canker

Plant Problems – Canker Disease


Canker diseases are caused by fungi or bacteria that enter open wounds on many tree and shrub species caused either by insects or mechanical damage. Cankers can vary in size and shape and often appear on stems, branches or trunks, structurally weakening entire plants.

Canker

Canker Disease Symptoms
Cankers appear often localized as brown-to-reddish lesions on the bark of trunks and branches or as injured areas on smaller twigs. Sometimes sap or moisture oozes from splits between the diseased and healthy tissue, giving off a foul odor. The first symptoms of affected branches are usually visible on leaves which may look smaller than normal, curled and pale. When a fungal pathogen invades bark and sapwood, the vascular system tissues become blocked or die, causing wilting and dieback. 

Canker

Canker Disease Causes
A variety of environmental conditions, such as prolonged cold weather or drought, flooding, hail, high winds, nutritional imbalances and transplant shock lead commonly to stress in shrubs and trees. In addition, mechanical injuries from lawn mowers and vehicles, animal damage, pruning wounds, root rot, insect borers and improper planting can lead to infectious fungi or bacteria entering wounds leading to canker diseases.

Problems in Fruit Trees
Bleeding sap on stone fruit trees such as apricot, cherry, peach, and plum can be caused by fungi of cystospora canker and may become problematic in orchards. When plants have been damaged mechanically or by boring insects, sawdust or pieces of bark are often observed mixed in the sap. For diagnosis, it is important to differentiate between insect infestation, mechanical injury, and infectious disease.

Canker

Canker Preventative Measures
Keeping plants healthy by not injuring them mechanically in the first place is key to minimize the chance of canker diseases. Choosing and planting varieties that are resistant and adapted to the area and site make a big difference. Proper planting, mulching, watering, soil management, pruning and winter protection practices encourage vigorous and healthy plant development.

Canker

If a canker infection occurs on twigs or branches, affected parts should be removed several inches behind the infection. Pruning cuts should be made at the branch collar and avoid leaving stubs. Between cuts, pruning tools should be sterilized using rubbing alcohol or bleach. Any type of trunk canker removal is best left to a professional certified arborist.

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Rock

Rock Mulch – The Ugly Truth


Nothing can be more environmentally destructive than replacing urban greens with rock. Rocks conduct heat from the hot sun during day hours and they then emit only heat at night when plants need cooling. Filling entire yards with gravel, rocks and boulders has got absolutely nothing to do with xeriscape landscapes. Removing greens from yards has serious consequences as pollinating insects and animals can no longer do their job. Over 1,200 food crops depend on pollination – where do people think food originates ?

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Coneflowers

Echinacea (Coneflower) Growing Guide


Plant Hardiness

Plant Hardiness Zones – Canada & US


Hardiness zones provide information by which gardeners and growers can determine which perennial plants are most likely to grow at a location. Canada and the US each use different, not interchangeable plant hardiness zones labelled with numbers and letters. Zones in Canada provided by National Resources Canada are determined by a variety of climatic conditions, including rainfall, frost-free periods, maximum snow depth, and more.

Canada’s plant hardiness zones range from 0, where weather is extremely harsh, to zone 8 which comprises certain areas along the west coast of British Columbia. American zones published by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) are based on the average lowest temperatures experienced in a region each year.

Plant Hardiness

Canada Plant Hardiness Search
National Resources Canada has developed an online tool that provides an alphabetic list of plant information. The list provides common or Latin name search options for hundreds of plants by different time periods, municipality and geographic data.

Plant Hardiness

Urban Sprawl & Micro-climates
Regardless of sophisticated calculations, hardiness zone conditions are unstable as the climate is changing. Additional factors created by micro-climates such as terrain features, bodies of water, wind, fire or smoke or even buildings and human activities make it difficult to determine whether plants can survive in certain areas or not.

Plant Hardiness

Does Plant Hardiness Information Matter ?
Yes and No. Canadian and USDA plant hardiness information has been updated a few times in past decades but as climate change progresses, hardiness information can only serve as an approximate guide. Plants which grew for years in one zone no longer exist and others which never managed to establish, now thrive.

Plant Hardiness


Plant Problems – Fruit Tree Gummosis


A plant that experiences zero degrees could be damaged and recover but will die with extended periods of cold. Combinations of wind, cold and humidity impact various plants differently. Temperature fluctuations are tough on most plants. The best practice is to plant native species that grow in a present zone rather than seeking exotic plants that are hard to look after.

Using USDA Zones in Canada
As no simple conversion systems exist to use USDA zones for Canada, a non-scientific method is to simply add one zone to the designated USDA zone. For example, USDA zone 4 is roughly comparable to zone 5 in Canada. 

Links:

Canada Plant Hardiness Zone Maps

Canada Plant Hardiness Search Tool

 

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Wisteria Vines For Okanagan, Shuswap & Kootenay Gardens

Wisteria Vines – Growing & Pruning Tips


The Wisteria is a long-lived, woody climbing vine with beautiful fragrant blue to purple flowers up to 36 inches in length. In spring and early summer, blooms appear on new growth and brown, bean-like pods develop on the plant after flowering. It is a very heavy vine that requires sturdy support. Wisteria is an aggressive, fast-growing plant that can easily reach lengths up to 30+ feet. Four types of wisteria are commonly available are: Wisteria floribunda (Japanese wisteria) – Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria) – Wisteria fructescens (American wisteria) – Wisteria macrostachy (Kentucky wisteria).

Note: All parts of the wisteria plant are deadly toxic to pets, livestock, and humans. 

Wisteria Cold Hardiness
Several types of Wisteria grow throughout Canada and the United States and each is slightly different in its cold hardiness. Some varieties are better suited for colder climates than others, but all thrive in full sun in milder temperatures. The Japanese Wisteria is hardy to about minus 30 degrees Celsius, while Chinese and American Wisteria are cold hardy to about minus 28 degrees. The most cold-hardy varieties are Kentucky Wisteria and “Summer Cascade” and “Blue Moon” which can sustain temperatures to minus 38 degrees Celsius. 

Asian and North American Species
Asian wisteria plants are aggressive growers with fuzzy seed pods, while North American wisteria plants are not quite as aggressive in their growing habits and have smooth seed pods and fruits, as well as more-or-less cylindrical, bean-shaped seeds. Another difference is that American and Kentucky wisteria’s flowers appear after the plant has leafed out in the late spring, whereas the Chinese wisteria’s blooms appear before its foliage.

Native wisteria, Wisteria frutescens, and Chinese wisteria, Wisteria sinensis, twine from left to right – clockwise, and Japanese wisteria, Wisteria floribunda, twines from right to left – counterclockwise. The spiral growth patterns can be a devastating strangulation to nearby trees and shrubs that come in contact with wisteria by robbing them of sunlight and nutrients.

Wisteria Blooming & Not Blooming 
Wisteria typically blooms within three years. Seed grown varieties should be avoided as they can take up to ten years or more to bloom. Several factors can lead to blooming failure: Too much shade, juvenile plants, late spring frost or improper pruning techniques. Another reason for failure to bloom can be excessive fertilizer, particularly nitrogen. Wisteria has nitrogen fixing capability and thus mature plants may benefit from added potassium and phosphate, but not nitrogen. Finally, the reason for no blooming can simply be – plant immaturity.

Wisteria can take a long time to bloom and first flowers may appear 2 to 3 years after planting. To expedite blooming startup, the plant can be shocked into reproduction by slicing some of the roots with a shovel. It is recommended to go about 8 to 10 inches into the ground about a foot and a half away from the main trunk. The chances to damage a wisteria by doing this are slim as it is a very resilient plant. Increased flowering has been achieved by some by adding liquid tomato or rose fertilizer. 

Wisteria Growing Requirements
Wisterias prefer a deep and rich earth but they also tolerate dry and sandy soil. Their roots are long and only few go deep, making few fibers. Wisterias are hard to transplant, unless they have been pot-grown for the purpose. Slow growing speed after transplanting can be dramatically changed by adding composted manure. To give a young wisteria an extra-good start is to plant it in a bottomless tub filled with good soil. The best time to plant wisteria is when the plant is dormant – in spring or fall. For full flower development, the plant needs to be in full sun. Given its speed of growth, wisterias should be planted well away from other plants to prevent it from taking over and causing damage.

Wisteria Climbing Training
Dead trees make excellent supports for training wisterias to climb. Good results are to be expected only in sunny locations. The Japanese wisteria (W. floribunda) is one of the best climbers. Wisteria can grow into a mound when unsupported, but is at its best when allowed to climb up a tree or a very sturdy supporting structure like a pergola because it can grow into immensely heavy and thick trunks.

Wisteria Care
Adding a handful of bone meal to the soil in spring and phosphorus in the fall will aid with flowering. Removing rampant shoots every two weeks during the summer will encourage additional flowering. Regular watering is important as it ensures plant longevity, especially in arid regions. To retain moisture and to control weeds, compost worked can be worked into the soil together with a 2 inch layer of mulch. 

Wisteria

Wisteria Pruning
Pruning is important for promoting better flowering and for controlling the size and shape of the wisteria plant. Regular pruning encourages the growth of new shoots, leading to more abundant and vibrant flowers. Wisterias grown too heavy can potentially damage structures such as pergolas or trellises. Wisteria should be pruned in mid-summer after flowering has finished and in late winter or early spring before new growth begins. Winter pruning helps to shape the plant, while the summer pruning encourages more blooms for the following year.

wisteria

Dead or diseased wood should be cut back to healthy wood by making clean cuts just above a bud or lateral branch. To encourage new growth and shape, long lateral branches need to be cut back to 3 to 4 buds from the main stem. Excessively long shoots can be shortened to a length of about 6 inches. Branches that are crossing can cause damage over time and must be removed to maintain a clear structure. Summer pruning controls excessive growth and shaping the wisteria plant after it has finished flowering.

Wisteria Types
The main types are Asian and American varieties. Asian: Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), Japanese wisteria (Wisteria floribunda). American: American wisteria (Wisteria frutescens) and the Kentucky wisteria (Wisteria macrostachya). Asian varieties have showier, more colourful blooms than native American wisteria vines, but they are invasive.

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Super Hardy Shade Trees For Vernon BC

2 Super Hardy Shade Trees For Penticton BC


Hardy shade trees are medium-sized to large trees whose primary purpose is to sustain local climate conditions and to provide shade with their spreading canopy and crown. They may not only provide privacy but also give shelter from sunlight and harmful UV rays in the heat of the summer. Shade is an important aspect in any garden as it provides also cooling and keeps moisture in balance with other plants. Fast growing shade trees can grow up to 25 inches in height per year. Following are 2 Super Hardy Shade Trees That Thrive in Vernon BC:

Amur Maple (Acer tataricum)
The amur maple also called tartarian maple, is originally from central and southeastern Europe, parts of Asia and Russia. It is a medium-sized tree which also exist as shrub form. It’s known for its red-winged seed cases which contrast beautifully with its fresh green foliage.

The acer tataricum ‘Hot Wings’ maple is a variety of the same family and origin. It features masses of deep, scarlet red-winged seed cases, which look like stunning summer blooms. Clusters of pale yellow flowers cover the tree just after it comes into leaf in spring and in autumn its foliage turns glowing shades of orange, red and yellow. This tree can grow in moist, well-drained soil in in full sun to partial shade.

Hardy Shade Trees

Amur Maple Specifications:
Scientific Name: Acer tataricum ginnala – Common Name: Amur maple, Tatarian maple – Family Name: Sapindaceae – Habit: Arching, Upright – Form: Round – Texture: Medium – Growing Size: 20×20 feet high and wide – Growth Rate: Moderate – Hardiness Rating: Zone 2: (-46 to -40 °C) – Exposure: Full sun – Soil: Rocky or gravelly or dry, Well-drained – Water Use: Moderate – Landscape Uses: Container planting, Fall interest.


Quaking Aspen (Populus tremuloides)
The most widely distributed tree in North America, the quaking aspen is a medium-sized deciduous tree from Alaska and Canada, all the way south to Mexico. Quaking aspen, also called trembling aspen, is named for its finely saw-toothed leaves which quake or tremble in light breezes. This tree regularly grows in dense, pure stands, creating a stunning golden vista when leaves change colour in the fall.

Hardy Shade Trees

Quaking Aspen Specifications:
Scientific Name: Populus tremuloides – Common Name: trembling aspen , white poplar – Family Name: Salicaceae – Habit: Spreading, Upright – Form: Oval – vertical, Round – Texture: Medium – Growing Size: 70×30 feet tall and wide – Growth Rate: Fast – Hardiness Rating: Zone 1: (below -46 °C) – Exposure: Full sun – Soil: Shallow and rocky to deep loamy sands and heavy clays – Landscape Use: Wind break.

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