Lavender – Why & How to Prune


Grown for its fragrance and flowers which attract many pollinating insects, Lavender is a hardy Mediterranean evergreen shrub popular in the arid landscapes of the Okanagan, Shuswap and beyond. Lavender is appreciated anywhere in local xeriscape gardens, cottage gardens and even in formal gardens. It can be planted beneath shrub roses or used as a low-growing lavender hedge or thrive in containers decorating decks and patios. 

Lavender – Why & How to Prune
At the time of its purchase, Lavender looks visually appealing. It is fresh, green and compact. The size and appearance however changes over time as does naturally with all plants, except not all plants turn woody and look scraggily. This is where the need for pruning comes into the picture as it is those fresh and green sprouts that will eventually turn woody if let to grow at will. Unlike with most plants, the green shoots of Lavender grow long and over time become woody from the bottom up.

The trick to keep Lavender looking nice is to keep pruning its soft shoots before they grow too long. If left to grow wild, Lavender may not be recoverable to its original looks and shape despite pruning efforts. Heavy pruning each season slows down the formation of wood and thus prolongs the lifetime of the plant.  

Prune After Bloom 
Depending on the regional cold hardiness zone, Lavender can be pruned in early spring or in fall. Fall pruning must be completed at least 6 weeks before the first frost arrives. To make sure Lavender blooms every season as it should, a best rule of thumb is to “prune after bloom”.  Pruning Lavender is quite simple. All shoots should be cut back by about 1/3 to 1/2 or or 2 to 4 inches up where leafy stems meet the woody base Then the whole plant can be given a mounding shape. 

As a compact plant, Lavender has an excellent heat resistance and loves a full sun exposure. It is cold hardy for zone 5 (minus 28 Celsius) in Canada. Garden centers carry a wide variety of Lavender plants in different sizes and flower colours such as Munstead, Hidcote, and Blue Cushion.

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8 Extremely Drought Tolerant & Cold Hardy Shrubs


Black Lace Elderberry (Sambucus nigra ‘Black Lace’)
A stunning addition to any landscape addition is the intense purple black lacy foliage of the Black Lace Elderberry. Its finely cut lace leave make it a perfect resemblance to that of Japanese maples. Because of its extreme tolerance and adaptability to dry climates and droughts, it is an ideal alternative to Japanese maple which require afternoon shade in the hot Interior of British Columbia.

Top reasons to grow Black Lace Elderberry are its unique lacy black foliage, pink flowers in early summer and its adaptability to grow in a range of challenging conditions. It needs moderate amounts of water to survive drought conditions. The Black Lace Elderberry requires 6+ hours of full sun to thrive. It grows also well in part shade to full shade for 4 to 6 hours per day. Pruning must be completed after bloom as the new buds develop on old wood.

The average ornamental variety can reach a size of 96×108 inches tall and wide when mature. Its habit is upright with large clusters of pink flower and deep purple to black foliage. The Black lace Elderberry is hardy to zones 5 to 9. It grows best in moist soils but can easily tolerate dry and hot environments. To produce berries, a relative plant such as the Black Beauty, Instant Karma, or Laced Up elderberry is required as pollinator. Note: According to the Humane Society of America, elderberry can be toxic to pets if consumed.


Forsythia (Forsythia x)
An early spring bloomer, the bright yellow, cheery blooms of forsythia that appear before the foliage provide a welcome to gardeners anxiously awaiting the start of a new growing season. Commonly available shrub varieties grow between 4 to 7 feet tall and wide. Forsythia is tolerant of a wide range of growing conditions and is reliably hardy in most climates.

Forsythia with its dense foliage provides a lush backdrop to other plants when it is finished blooming. The shrub can be used as feature plant by itself or in a mass plantings, as hedge for privacy, in containers and also as woodland border. Even though this plant is drought tolerant, it requires a site with full sun to light shade and well-draining soil. Forsythia is tolerant of different soils, but performs best in rich, well-draining environments. For containers, high-quality potting mix is important.


American Filbert Hazelnut (Corylus americana)
An excellent thicket-forming native shrub for woodland gardens or as tall hedging in any landscape. Showy male flowers (catkins) add early spring interest and dark green leaves turn into beautiful colours in the fall.

The nuts mature from September to October, attracting seed-eating birds, such as blue jays and woodpeckers. Hazelnuts are fast growing shrubs that grow 5 to 8 feet tall and wide. They require full sun or 6 hours of direct light daily but can also do well in shady areas. They are cold hardy to minus 28 degrees Celsius / zone 5. Hazelnut plants prefer moist, well-drained to alkaline soils. Good drought tolerance once established.


Lilac (Syringa vulgaris)
Lilac is a very popular ornamental, large deciduous shrub or multi-stemmed small tree. It is attractive for its purple to pink sweet-smelling flowers, which appear in early summer just before many other summer flowers come into bloom. Lilac plants grow fast and they can grow 3 to 20 feet in height and width, depending on variety. Secondary shoots from the base or roots can grow up to 8 inches in diameter. Lilac grows well in full sun and is cold hardy zone 4 to 8. It tolerates chalk, loam, clay and sandy soil conditions that are also moist and well-drained.


Mock Orange (Philadelphus)
Mock Orange is an elegant, classic flowering shrub. It’s long been been a garden favourite for its pure white blooms, which are deliciously scented and reminiscent of orange blossom. Depending on variety, Mock Orange can grow from 4 to 10 feet high and wide. The shrubs appear in late spring and summer against a smart backdrop of dark green, often arching foliage. Mock Orange grows best in in full sun or light shade and moist but well-drained soil. Blooms on old wood. Prune after flowering.


Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius)
Ninebark plants are spring-flowering shrubs common in many landscape settings. A super drought tolerant and cold hardy shrub that features, depending on variety either green or orange to deep burgundy foliage. Spring flowers emerge as light pink and turn white. Ninebark, an American native that grows 3 to 10 feet tall and wide thrives best in full sun and in clay and loamy soil. Its hardiness zone is 3 to 9 in Canada.


Saskatoon (Amelanchier alnifolia)
Saskatoon, also known as Serviceberry is an Okanagan native shrub that grows 6 to 12 feet tall and wide. It features green foliage and attractive white, fragrant blossoms in spring. Winter hardiness is exceptional (Zone 3) but frost can damage blooms as late as May. The shrub requires full sun exposure to ripen its purple, edible fruit. 

Indigenous people in Canada have long been eating the sweet, nutty tasting fruits, fresh or dried. Saskatoon berries are well known as an ingredient in pemmican, added as flavour and preservative. They are used in saskatoon berry pie, jam, wines, cider, beers, and sugar-infused berries similar to dried cranberries used for cereals, trail mix, and snack foods. 

Garden centers often carry tree versions of this cultivar that grow about 20 feet tall and wide at maturity. Saskatoons are adaptable to most soil types with exception of poorly drained or heavy clay soils lacking organic matter. Shallow soils should be avoided, especially if the water table is high or erratic.


Sumac (Rhus typhina)
Sumac is a dioecious, deciduous shrub or small tree growing up to 16 feet tall and 20 feet wide. It has alternate, pinnately compound leaves, with serrate leaflets. Leaf petioles and stems are densely covered in rust-coloured hairs. The velvety texture and the forking pattern of the branches, reminiscent of antlers, have led to the common name “stag’s horn sumac”.

Small, greenish-white through yellowish flowers occur in dense terminal panicles, and flowers occur from May through July. Fruit ripens from June through September and is eaten by many birds in winter. Fall foliage is brilliant shades of red, orange and yellow.

Staghorn sumac is an ornamental plant which provides interest throughout the year; though its vigorous, suckering habit makes it unsuitable for smaller gardens. It spreads by seeds and rhizomes and is considered invasive by some. It can grow under a wide array of conditions, but is most often found in dry and poor soil on which other plants cannot survive. Staghorn sumac is not closely related to poison sumac.

Hi, I am Matt – the owner of Chasing Sprouts website. The blog, resources and plant database segments feature a wealth of information to master all sorts of gardening projects. Feel free to share my articles with your world. Bookmark Chasing Sprouts to stay in the loop!

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Okanagan Shuswap Garden – Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’


An award-winning, most widely grown South African cultivar puts even the most spectacular of red coneflowers into a corner. Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ features erect pleated leaves and wands of brilliant fiery scarlet red tubular flowers. This perennial easily blooms from mid to late summer, driving hummingbirds literally crazy.

This stunning plant grows to 4 feet tall and about 2 feet wide with its bladed foliage resembling sword-lilies. It can grow in full sun or part shade and it requires moderately fertile, moist but well-drained soil. Once established in Okanagan or Shuswap gardens, it is extremely drought tolerant but can also handle cold winters.

Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ is often spotted in established gardens where it flourishes in flower beds and herbaceous borders complementing other flowering plants. Planting crocosmia is a great way to add tropical colour to any garden in late summer, once the spring bloomers have come and gone.

Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ makes for outstanding cut flowers. Clumps should be divided every three years, in spring. In colder regions, the corms can be stored like gladioli, wintered in pots, or mulched heavily outdoors.

Hi, I am Matt – the owner of Chasing Sprouts website. The blog, resources and plant database segments feature a wealth of information to master all sorts of gardening projects. Feel free to share my articles with your world. Bookmark Chasing Sprouts to stay in the loop!

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Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ – A Stunning South African


An award-winning, most widely grown South African cultivar puts even the most spectacular of red coneflowers into a corner. Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ features erect pleated leaves and wands of brilliant fiery scarlet red tubular flowers. This perennial easily blooms from mid to late summer, driving hummingbirds literally crazy.

This stunning plant grows to 4 feet tall and about 2 feet wide with its bladed foliage resembling sword-lilies. It can grow in full sun or part shade and it requires moderately fertile, moist but well-drained soil. Once established in Okanagan or Shuswap gardens, it is extremely drought tolerant but can also handle cold winters.

Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ is often spotted in established gardens where it flourishes in flower beds and herbaceous borders complementing other flowering plants. Planting crocosmia is a great way to add tropical colour to any garden in late summer, once the spring bloomers have come and gone.

Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ makes for outstanding cut flowers. Clumps should be divided every three years, in spring. In colder regions, the corms can be stored like gladioli, wintered in pots, or mulched heavily outdoors.

Hi, I am Matt – the owner of Chasing Sprouts website. The blog, resources and plant database segments feature a wealth of information to master all sorts of gardening projects. Feel free to share my articles with your world. Bookmark Chasing Sprouts to stay in the loop!

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Plant Search – How To Get More Results


Plant Search – How To Get More Results? Have you ever noticed when you search for plants or information on a specific specimen, that it is actually more of an undertaking than you thought? Partially at fault are the unsatisfactory results that your search provides. To start with, from the top down, all you get to see are advertisements. 

Then, it often becomes annoying as some of these ads follow you around and pop up every time you are looking for something else. The reasons for that are big companies pay big to the search provider for their ads to show on the main search of your phone or home computer. The solution to this problem is super simple – just change the search option in your phone or home computer! Better yet – download and install this privacy base search app and you never have to worry again. It is that simple.

Hi, I am Matt – the owner of Chasing Sprouts website. The blog, resources and plant database segments feature a wealth of information to master all sorts of gardening projects. Feel free to share my articles with your world. Bookmark Chasing Sprouts to stay in the loop!

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Plant Retail – Buyers Beware


Plant Retail – Buyers Beware: Planting season starts as early as one can get a shovel into the ground. Okanagan and Shuswap garden centres and nurseries annually open at the beginning of April and that is the time to go and get plants. By the middle of May, they are usually fully stocked. Later in the season and especially when it gets hot, plants get stressed and their health and future development maybe compromised. 

What’s a better choice to purchase your plants from – garden centres or growers? There is not a perfect answer to that question. Big garden centre companies may grow plants in greenhouses with professional staff. Growers, as the name suggests, grow most plants from seed which also requires good knowledge. Smaller retail places may not and so they get plants from either a grower or from a middle-man seller or distributor. What it really come down to is, quality and care by knowledgeable staff. And that again depends on the size and budget of a business and their overall intention. Big box stores also sell plants, but they often lack the knowledge and care.

Mid-summer gardening projects face the greatest challenge which is often to find half decent looking plants and this is where the source can play an important role. Annuals are usually pretty easy to bring back to life if they are not entirely dried up. All they need is a bit of extra water to regain their quality. Shrubs, depending on size and condition, often can also be nurtured back to life in mid-summer. But with trees that may be a bit different as they are  are larger plants with larger demand for care. Once they are heat stressed while still in a planter pot, they often do not come back. Their overall survival depends on the environment they are put in and how they are looked after.

In addition, wind storms can take a toll on trees in garden centres. When plants inadequately stored, i.e. when they aren’t protected from being blown over, tips and branches can become damaged leading to problems down the road. Impact injuries to the bark lead to disease as pathogens can enter wounds and can impede the longevity of the plant. 


Plant Problems – Canker Disease


Plant Shopping Tips
Annuals, perennial flowers and shrubs for the most part can be purchased without concern from garden centres, especially early in the season. That’s when they are fresh, in good shape and they have ample time to become established before the summer heat sets in. It’s important to always check for quality. Plants with obvious issues should be avoided even when sold at reduced cost. For the purchase of trees, some prior research should be considered. Larger plants are more costly which makes it worthwhile to shop around to see what’s available and which varieties are hardy enough to survive the local climate. Whenever in doubt, it may be a better choice to see local growers whose livelihoods depend on the quality of their products.


Plant Research & Limitations of Google


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Okanagan Shuswap Garden – Plant Hardiness Zones – Canada & US


Hardiness zones provide information by which gardeners and growers can determine which perennial plants are most likely to grow at a location. Canada and the US each use different, not interchangeable plant hardiness zones labelled with numbers and letters. Zones in Canada provided by National Resources Canada are determined by a variety of climatic conditions, including rainfall, frost-free periods, maximum snow depth, and more.

Canada’s plant hardiness zones range from 0, where weather is extremely harsh, to zone 8 which comprises certain areas along the west coast of British Columbia. American zones published by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) are based on the average lowest temperatures experienced in a region each year.

Canada Plant Hardiness Search
National Resources Canada has developed an online tool that provides an alphabetic list of plant information. The list provides common or Latin name search options for hundreds of plants by different time periods, municipality and geographic data.

Urban Sprawl & Micro-climates
Regardless of sophisticated calculations, hardiness zone conditions are unstable as the climate is changing. Additional factors created by micro-climates such as terrain features, bodies of water, wind, fire or smoke or even buildings and human activities make it difficult to determine whether plants can survive in certain areas or not.

Does Plant Hardiness Information Matter ?
Yes and No. Canadian and USDA plant hardiness information has been updated a few times in past decades but as climate change progresses, hardiness information can only serve as an approximate guide. Plants which grew for years in one zone no longer exist and others which never managed to establish, now thrive.


Plant Problems – Fruit Tree Gummosis


A plant that experiences zero degrees could be damaged and recover but will die with extended periods of cold. Combinations of wind, cold and humidity impact various plants differently. Temperature fluctuations are tough on most plants. The best practice is to plant native species that grow in a present zone rather than seeking exotic plants that are hard to look after.

Using USDA Zones in Canada
As no simple conversion systems exist to use USDA zones for Canada, a non-scientific method is to simply add one zone to the designated USDA zone. For example, USDA zone 4 is roughly comparable to zone 5 in Canada. 

Links: Canada Plant Hardiness Zone Maps   Canada Plant Hardiness Search Tool

Hi, I am Matt – the owner of Chasing Sprouts website. The blog, resources and plant database segments feature a wealth of information to master all sorts of gardening projects. Feel free to share my articles with your world. Bookmark Chasing Sprouts to stay in the loop!

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Okanagan Shuswap Garden – Echinacea (Coneflower) Growing Guide


Okanagan Shuswap Garden – The Ugly Truth of Rock Mulch


Nothing can be more environmentally destructive than replacing urban greens with rock. Rocks conduct heat from the hot sun during day hours and they then emit only heat at night when plants need cooling. Filling entire yards with gravel, rocks and boulders has got absolutely nothing to do with xeriscape landscapes. Removing greens from yards has serious consequences as pollinating insects and animals can no longer do their job. Over 1,200 food crops depend on pollination – where do people think food originates ?

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Hi, I am Matt – the owner of Chasing Sprouts website. The blog, resources and plant database segments feature a wealth of information to master all sorts of gardening projects. Feel free to share my articles with your world. Bookmark Chasing Sprouts to stay in the loop!

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Okanagan Shuswap Garden – Canker Disease


Canker diseases are caused by fungi or bacteria that enter open wounds on many tree and shrub species caused either by insects or mechanical damage. Cankers can vary in size and shape and often appear on stems, branches or trunks, structurally weakening entire plants.

Canker Disease Symptoms
Cankers appear often localized as brown-to-reddish lesions on the bark of trunks and branches or as injured areas on smaller twigs. Sometimes sap or moisture oozes from splits between the diseased and healthy tissue, giving off a foul odor. The first symptoms of affected branches are usually visible on leaves which may look smaller than normal, curled and pale. When a fungal pathogen invades bark and sapwood, the vascular system tissues become blocked or die, causing wilting and dieback. 

Canker Disease Causes
A variety of environmental conditions, such as prolonged cold weather or drought, flooding, hail, high winds, nutritional imbalances and transplant shock lead commonly to stress in shrubs and trees. In addition, mechanical injuries from lawn mowers and vehicles, animal damage, pruning wounds, root rot, insect borers and improper planting can lead to infectious fungi or bacteria entering wounds leading to canker diseases.

Problems in Fruit Trees
Bleeding sap on stone fruit trees such as apricot, cherry, peach, and plum can be caused by fungi of cystospora canker and may become problematic in orchards. When plants have been damaged mechanically or by boring insects, sawdust or pieces of bark are often observed mixed in the sap. For diagnosis, it is important to differentiate between insect infestation, mechanical injury, and infectious disease.

Canker Preventative Measures
Keeping plants healthy by not injuring them mechanically in the first place is key to minimize the chance of canker diseases. Choosing and planting varieties that are resistant and adapted to the area and site make a big difference. Proper planting, mulching, watering, soil management, pruning and winter protection practices encourage vigorous and healthy plant development.

If a canker infection occurs on twigs or branches, affected parts should be removed several inches behind the infection. Pruning cuts should be made at the branch collar and avoid leaving stubs. Between cuts, pruning tools should be sterilized using rubbing alcohol or bleach. Any type of trunk canker removal is best left to a professional certified arborist.

Hi, I am Matt – the owner of Chasing Sprouts website. The blog, resources and plant database segments feature a wealth of information to master all sorts of gardening projects. Feel free to share my articles with your world. Bookmark Chasing Sprouts to stay in the loop!

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